Editorial guide
Concierge guide — Vietnam
Why choose Vietnam
Vietnam appeals to travellers seeking a country that is comprehensible yet never uniform. In just ten days, the scenery changes multiple times. Hanoi boasts a rare urban density in Southeast Asia. Hue slows the pace with its dynastic heritage. Hoi An and Da Nang introduce a more coastal sequence. Ho Chi Minh City reinvigorates the journey with direct commercial energy.
This variety is not merely a contrast of landscapes. It also influences the way of living, dining, and moving about. Hanoi's Old Quarter still operates through craft streets. The Temple of Literature recalls a scholarly tradition founded in 1070. Hue's monuments have been UNESCO heritage since 1993. Hoi An, listed since 1999, narrates Asia's trading routes.
The country also appeals to those wishing to spend time on the water. Halong Bay, a UNESCO heritage site since 1994 and extended in 2000, remains a major landmark. Lan Ha Bay often offers a calmer perspective of the same karst relief. In the Mekong Delta, water governs everything. It regulates markets, orchards, crossings, and even the silence sought by some hotels.
Vietnam is also noteworthy for its hospitality. Local luxury relies less on ostentation and more on space, service, and location. From Son Tra, Non Nuoc, Ninh Van Bay, to Phu Quoc, the offerings cover various styles. Some travellers seek a beach villa. Others prefer an urban address in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. The country allows for this arrangement without a jarring cultural shift.
The destination is less suited for those wishing to see everything in one trip. Internal distances remain long despite a dense air network. The North, Centre, and South do not share the same climate. A serious itinerary selects two or three coherent sequences. It is often here that the journey gains in substance. Vietnam rewards precision more than accumulation.
When to go by region
Vietnam cannot be understood through a single season. The country stretches over 1,600 kilometres. The climate varies significantly between Hanoi, Hue, and Phu Quoc. For a first trip, the simplest period often runs from February to April. Temperatures remain more stable. Rainfall is often less disruptive on a North-Centre-South itinerary.
The North requires real nuance. Hanoi experiences a cool winter from December to February. Halong Bay can then lose clarity due to mist. Some travellers appreciate this grey atmosphere. Others find it frustrating for a cruise. March and April often provide a better balance. The rice fields of Ninh Binh are pleasant at this time. Sapa remains cooler, with marked variations depending on altitude.
The Centre requires more vigilance. Hue, Da Nang, and Hoi An often suffer heavy rains from September to December. Flooding episodes can sometimes affect Hoi An. October and November are the most delicate months for a beach stay. From February to August, the central coast performs better. The sea is more stable near Non Nuoc and Son Tra. However, temperatures rise quickly between June and August.
The South is easier to read. Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta experience a dry season from December to April. The rainy season follows, with often brief showers. These do not hinder a well-structured trip. Phu Quoc operates better from November to April. Between July and September, the sea can be less inviting. Boat transfers also become more variable.
The cultural calendar deserves consideration. Tet, the Lunar New Year, falls between late January and mid-February, depending on the year. In 2025, it begins on January 29. Many establishments close or operate at reduced capacity. Domestic transport becomes strained. The Hue Festival occurs periodically, depending on local programming. The Mid-Autumn Festival animates Hanoi and Hoi An, often in September or October. My operational advice remains simple. Avoid combining the Centre and North in November. It is better to choose Ho Chi Minh City, the Mekong, and Phu Quoc.
What to see and do
Vietnam is best visited in sequences rather than as a collection of sites. Hanoi deserves at least three nights. The Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem, and the Temple of Literature provide a solid introduction. The Vietnam Museum of Ethnography complements this entry well. The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum remains a major political site. It is best to visit early, with appropriate attire and patience.
In the North, Ninh Binh offers a coherent extension from Hanoi. Tam Coc and Trang An provide a terrestrial view of the karst landscape. The Trang An landscape complex has been UNESCO heritage since 2014. Spending a night there enhances the experience. Groups depart in the late afternoon. Halong Bay also requires a minimum of one night on board. A simple day trip reduces the location to a backdrop.
The Centre concentrates a dense historical narrative. Hue requires a full day, often two. The Imperial City, the tombs of Minh Mang and Tu Duc, and the Thien Mu Pagoda form a coherent ensemble. The site benefits from being explored with a knowledgeable guide. The stories of court, dynasty, and war become clearer. Hoi An calls for a different approach. It is best to walk there early in the morning, before the crowds and heat.
Hoi An is not limited to evening lanterns. The Japanese covered bridge, merchant houses, and Chinese assemblies tell the story of an ancient trading port. The nearby countryside also deserves time. Tra Que, Cam Thanh, and An Bang allow for a departure from the historic centre. Da Nang often serves as a beach base. The Marble Mountains Museum, the Son Tra Peninsula, and Non Nuoc Beach structure a three-night stay well.
The South is read differently. Ho Chi Minh City requires attention to both streets and monuments. The Dong Khoi district, the central post office, Ben Thanh market, and Cholon reveal multiple layers of the city. The War Remnants Museum remains direct but useful. In the Mekong Delta, Ben Tre often works better than My Tho. Can Tho retains interest for the Cai Rang floating market. It is essential to arrive before 06:30. After 08:00, activity decreases significantly.
Where to eat and what to seek
Vietnam is also understood through its cuisine. The country eats early, often, and with precision. Mornings belong to *pho*, *bun*, and coffee. Lunch can remain light. Dinner opens another register, more structured, sometimes very contemporary. Hanoi retains a depth of broths and grilled dishes. Ho Chi Minh City showcases more fusion. Da Nang and Hoi An excel in seafood and fresh herbs.
The Michelin Guide published its Vietnam selection in 2024 for Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, and Da Nang. This edition confirmed an already mature scene. In 2024, Gia in Hanoi holds 1 Michelin star. Hibana by Koki at Capella Hanoi also holds 1 Michelin star in 2024. In Ho Chi Minh City, Anan Saigon retains 1 Michelin star in 2024. Akuna and Long Trieu also hold 1 Michelin star in 2024. This reading is helpful but does not summarise the country.
In Hanoi, one should seek multiple levels of cuisine. *Cha ca*, *bun cha*, and *pho* remain solid reference points. The Hoan Kiem district concentrates many useful addresses. Tay Ho attracts a more international scene. Koki and Gia appeal to travellers seeking a structured dinner. For a more direct experience, the streets around Hang Dieu or Tong Duy Tan remain interesting. However, one must accept the noise, close tables, and quick service.
In Ho Chi Minh City, District 1 and District 3 offer the best density. Anan Saigon, in Cho Cu, presents a contemporary interpretation of the local repertoire. Long Trieu, at The Reverie Saigon, leans more towards high Cantonese cuisine. Ben Thanh market is not the best place for good dining. It is better to aim for identified addresses in Dakao, Thao Dien, or around Nguyen Dinh Chieu. The specialty coffee scene is also rapidly progressing in the city.
In the Centre, dining requires more careful selection. In Da Nang and Hoi An, the scene often remains beach-oriented. Seafood is good there. However, some menus seem too calibrated for visitors. One should then return to local specialities. *Mi Quang*, *bun bo Hue*, *cao lau*, and *banh xeo* provide a more accurate reading. My advice remains simple. Reserve Michelin tables in advance. Also, keep space for a modest, well-executed lunch near a market or busy street.
Where to stay according to the trip
The right accommodation in Vietnam depends less on the displayed standard than on the chosen district. In Hanoi, the Hoan Kiem area remains the most practical. It allows for walking to the Old Quarter, the Opera, and several good restaurants. Tay Ho is better suited for longer stays. The atmosphere there is more residential. However, the journey to historical sites takes longer. For a first trip, Hoan Kiem retains the advantage.
In Ho Chi Minh City, District 1 remains the most coherent base. Dong Khoi, Nguyen Hue, and the Opera concentrate hotels, restaurants, and business meetings. District 3 appeals more to travellers seeking a more lived-in city. Thao Dien, in Thu Duc, attracts a settled clientele. This area is less suitable for a short stay. Travel times can quickly become burdensome. Therefore, one must choose based on the purpose of the trip, not just the room size.
In the Centre, two logics dominate. Hoi An suits travellers wanting heritage, cycling, and a slower pace. One must then choose between the historic centre, Thu Bon River, and An Bang beach. Da Nang better meets a desire for the sea and simple logistics. The airport is nearby. The large resorts of Non Nuoc and Son Tra facilitate family stays. To combine both, three nights in Da Nang followed by two in Hoi An works well.
Hue deserves a genuine night on site. Staying only in Da Nang and making round trips diminishes the visit. Hotels near the Perfume River are the most practical. They allow for quick access to the Imperial City and serious restaurants. For the bay, it is essential to distinguish between Ha Long and Lan Ha. A private or semi-private junk significantly alters the experience. Comfort then depends on the itinerary, the evening anchorage, and noise levels.
Vietnam does not have a national equivalent to Atout France for classifying palaces. Therefore, one must read brands, locations, and labels with caution. Some Vietnamese hotels appear in Forbes Travel Guide, depending on the year, but coverage remains partial. My operational advice is simple. Prioritise views, circulation, and sleep quality. A spacious suite on a noisy axis quickly loses its appeal. In Vietnam, the right address is often the one that saves time.
What to know
Vietnam requires little complicated preparation, but a few points matter. Visa requirements depend on nationality and purpose of stay. Rules evolve, so it is essential to check before departure with the Vietnamese embassy or the official e-visa portal. The local currency is the Vietnamese dong. Card payments are increasing in Hanoi, Da Nang, and Ho Chi Minh City. Cash remains useful for taxis, markets, and small eateries.
Tipping is not mandatory but is appreciated in high-end hospitality. In restaurants, a service charge may already be included. Therefore, it is wise to read the bill before adding an amount. For a private driver or guide, a gratuity is welcome if the service has been good. Electrical outlets vary by hotel. Many accept European plugs. A universal adapter is prudent to avoid unpleasant surprises.
Connectivity is straightforward. An eSIM works well for most travellers. Viettel has a good reputation for coverage, including outside major cities. Wi-Fi is common in hotels and cafes. Tap water is not drinkable. It is best to prefer filtered or bottled water. The sun can be intense in the Centre and South. An air-conditioned vehicle, a hat, and proper hydration can transform the day.
Local politeness remains understated. A calm tone and a smile help more than a display of authority. A few useful words suffice. *Xin chao* serves as a greeting. *Cam on* means thank you. In temples and pagodas, shoulders and knees must be covered. Noise is part of the country. It should not be interpreted as aggression. Crossing a street requires maintaining a steady pace. Scooters swerve more than they stop.
Hotel taxes are generally included in the displayed rates, but it is essential to check the final mention. Prices should be read in dongs or euros depending on the booking channel. For a regular purchase, it is better to ask for the exact amount before ordering. My practical advice remains simple. Keep small denominations, a no-fee card, and the hotel address in Vietnamese. This detail avoids many misunderstandings with a driver or merchant.
Insider tips on the ground
Vietnam rewards travellers who slightly shift their perspective without seeking absolute isolation. My main advice concerns timing. Hoi An is best appreciated between 06:00 and 08:00. The facades, markets, and alleys regain true depth. In the evening, the city becomes more theatrical. This pleases some. Others prefer to see it before the lanterns and crowds.
For the bay, Lan Ha often works better than Halong for a first night on board. The scenery remains close. Traffic often appears less dense there. However, it is essential to check the exact itinerary of the boat. Some cruises sell Lan Ha but mainly navigate in heavily trafficked areas. A well-placed cabin also matters. It is better to avoid the lower deck, which is more exposed to the noise of engines and moorings.
In Hanoi, one should venture beyond the Old Quarter without going too far. In the morning, the Chau Long market offers a more local perspective than some streets saturated with visitors. The area around Truc Bach also merits a slow walk. There, one finds good cafes, more breathable sidewalks, and a different pace. For the train street, caution is advised. The place is photogenic, but the experience has lost its authenticity.
In Hue, a car with a driver truly changes the day. It allows for seamless visits to the tomb of Minh Mang, the Thien Mu pagoda, and a garden house. The itinerary remains fluid, avoiding unnecessary backtracking. It is best to leave early, before the heat. In Ho Chi Minh City, my advice leans towards Cholon in the morning. The area is better understood before peak traffic. The Binh Tay market and temples gain clarity then.
In the Mekong, it is better to sleep in Ben Tre or Can Tho than to undertake a simple excursion from Ho Chi Minh City. The delta requires a night to change scale. The arroyos empty in the late afternoon. Orchards and ferries then take on a different significance. One last useful point. Book a massage or treatment at the end of the day, not between visits. The body struggles with heat, travel, and tight schedules.
What to avoid
The primary pitfall in Vietnam is an overly ambitious itinerary. Attempting to cover Hanoi, Sapa, Halong, Hue, Hoi An, Da Nang, Ho Chi Minh City, and the Mekong in ten days can quickly lead to fatigue. The country appears compact on a map. In practice, it is not. Transfers consume entire days. Two or three well-chosen sequences yield a more solid result. The journey then gains in comfort and coherence.
One should also avoid certain visiting windows. In Hoi An, walking in the historic centre between 18:30 and 21:00 during high season can become tedious. The lanterns attract large crowds. In Halong Bay, very short day rotations often lead to a compressed experience. Arriving at Cai Rang after 08:00 means missing the essence of the market. At Ben Thanh, dining randomly in the most touristy alleys often disappoints.
Transport also requires a bit of discipline. It is best to avoid unmarked taxis when exiting Tan Son Nhat or Noi Bai. Grab, Xanh SM, Mai Linh, and Vinasun remain safer options. With a traditional taxi, one should request the meter at the start. Fake high-value bills sometimes circulate in heavily touristed areas. It is wise to calmly check the change received. Keeping small denominations limits such friction.
Certain purchases require the same caution. Very cheap cruises in the bay often hide mediocre cabins, noisy anchorages, or overloaded schedules. The “Mekong” excursions sold en masse from District 1 often reduce the delta to a few agreed stops. The tailoring workshops in Hoi An vary in quality. It is essential to request a genuine fitting period. A 24-hour delivery rarely results in a serious cut.
Lastly, a more discreet point. One should avoid underestimating the heat and noise. In both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, a poorly insulated room on a busy street can ruin sleep. In the Centre, September to December often complicates beach stays. The country remains hospitable, but it does not forgive improvisation. My final advice is simple. Book little, but well. Allow margins between flights, roads, and visits.
Getting around efficiently
Vietnam is navigable, provided one accepts the distances. To connect Hanoi, Da Nang, and Ho Chi Minh City, flying remains the most rational option. Vietnam Airlines and Bamboo Airways cover the major routes. The train exists but takes time. Between Hanoi and Da Nang, one often needs to account for over 15 hours. The night train mainly appeals to those who enjoy the journey itself.
Airports are close to city centres, though not immediate. Noi Bai is about 28 km from Hoan Kiem Lake. Da Nang International Airport is approximately 3 km from the Dragon Bridge. Tan Son Nhat is about 7 km from Dong Khoi. Travel times vary significantly depending on the hour. In Ho Chi Minh City, 7 km can take 40 minutes. Therefore, it is wise to avoid tight schedules after a flight.
In the city, walking works in fragments. Hanoi is easily navigated around Hoan Kiem and the Old Quarter. Ho Chi Minh City is less conducive to continuous wandering. Sidewalks are often occupied. Da Nang is simpler for short trips. The Grab and Xanh SM apps are the most practical. They reduce negotiations and limit unnecessary detours. For traditional taxis, Mai Linh and Vinasun remain the most reliable references.
The urban rail network is limited. Hanoi has the Cat Linh–Ha Dong Line 2A, but it offers little assistance to premium visitors. Ho Chi Minh City opened its Ben Thanh–Suoi Tien Line 1 in 2024. It is useful for certain routes but not for a stay focused on District 1. In the Centre, a car with a driver remains genuinely beneficial. It allows for seamless connections between Hue, the Hai Van Pass, and Hoi An without excessive fatigue.
For islands and bays, one must think in fine logistics. Cat Ba requires road, ferry, or speedboat depending on the starting point. Phu Quoc is easily reached by direct flight from Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. In the Mekong, a private car to Ben Tre or Can Tho simplifies matters significantly. My operational advice remains consistent. Do not change hotels every night. Two solid bases are better than four poorly connected stops.